Malou De Ryk & Family Safari In Uganda With Anthony

As the morning mist lifted over Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, revealing layers of emerald canopy stretching into the distance, I watched the expressions of wonder on the faces of the De Ryk family. It was day four of our 21-day Uganda safari expedition, and we were about to embark on what many consider life’s most profound wildlife encounter—tracking mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. This moment encapsulated the essence of our journey: immersion in Uganda’s raw, unfiltered wilderness, creating connections that transcend the typical tourist experience.

Over three transformative weeks in September 2024, I, Anthony Nuwahereza guided Malou De Ryk and her family through Uganda’s most spectacular landscapes and wildlife encounters. Our comprehensive itinerary balanced exhilarating adventures with contemplative moments—from heart-pounding whitewater rafting on the Nile and intimate gorilla encounters in misty forests to silent boat cruises where elephants waded at the water’s edge and rare shoebills stalked through wetlands.

This journey wasn’t merely about checking destinations off a list. It was about experiencing Uganda in its full complexity: dawn game drives across golden savannahs, tracking chimpanzees through Kibale’s ancient forests, watching hundreds of bird species take flight across Mabamba Wetland, and understanding the delicate balance that sustains these ecosystems. Through the De Ryk family’s eyes, I rediscovered the magic of my homeland, witnessing their transformation from curious travelers to passionate advocates for Uganda’s wild places.

What follows is not just a travelogue but a testament to the power of immersive travel—how a 21-day Uganda safari adventure moving through diverse environments can reshape perspectives and create ambassadors for conservation. Join us as we retrace our path through the Pearl of Africa, from the thundering waters of Murchison Falls to the mist-shrouded mountains that harbor our closest relatives in the animal kingdom.

Day 1- Transfer from Entebbe to Mabamba Wetland.

On our first morning, we departed from the tranquil shores of Entebbe and boarded a motorized wooden boat that would carry us across Lake Victoria to the renowned Mabamba Wetland. The gentle breeze kissed our faces as we glided across Africa’s largest lake, with its waters shimmering under the morning sun. Our captain navigated skillfully through fishing villages where locals waved from their colorful canoes, offering glimpses into lake life that few road travelers experience. After approximately 45 minutes on the water, the lake narrowed as we approached the maze-like channels of Mabamba, a papyrus wonderland. This boat transfer wasn’t merely transportation—it was our first wildlife encounter, as kingfishers darted alongside us and cormorants took flight from overhanging branches, setting the perfect tone for the remarkable bird-watching adventure that awaited the De Ryk family in the wetlands ahead.

Once we were back on shore, we departed for Lake Mburo National Park arriving in the evening – Check in at Hyena Hill Lodge.

Day 2- Game drive & boat cruise

Our exploration of Lake Mburo National Park unfolded in two distinct yet equally magnificent experiences. The morning game drive revealed a savannah paradise as our 4×4 vehicle navigated rolling hills dotted with whistling acacia trees, where the De Ryk family marveled at the park’s unique wildlife assemblage—elegant impalas leaping across grasslands, zebras with their distinctive stripe patterns unique to Uganda, massive eland antelopes, and curious giraffes browsing on treetops. By afternoon, we shifted perspectives entirely, boarding a small pontoon boat to cruise the tranquil waters of Lake Mburo itself. The family fell silent with wonder as hippos emerged from beneath the surface, their gigantic yawns revealing impressive teeth, while crocodiles basked motionless on muddy banks. Water birds created a constant spectacle—pied kingfishers hovering before plunging precisely for fish, African fish eagles calling their distinctive cry from overhead, and hamerkops constructing their massive nests along the shoreline. As the golden afternoon light bathed the landscape, we watched buffaloes, bushbucks and warthogs descend to the water’s edge, creating that magical confluence of land and water that makes Lake Mburo such a perfect introduction to Uganda’s wildlife treasures.

Day 3: Transfer to Bwindi National Park- Home of the Gorillas

Our journey to Uganda’s southwestern corner took us through increasingly mountainous terrain, with each bend in the road revealing more breathtaking vistas. The De Ryk family watched in fascination as lowland landscapes gradually transformed into the rolling hills of “Little Switzerland” – Uganda’s highland region. We stopped at the equator crossing for the obligatory photos and simple yet fascinating demonstrations of the Coriolis effect, with water draining in different directions just meters apart. Small villages dotted the countryside as we climbed higher, with terraced hillsides cultivated with precision by local farmers. By late afternoon, we caught our first glimpse of the mist-shrouded Virunga volcanoes marking the borders of Uganda, Rwanda, and Congo. Arriving at Lake Mutanda Lodge as the sun began to set, the family was spellbound by their first views of the serene lake waters perfectly reflecting the surrounding volcanoes. After settling into their lakeside cottages, we enjoyed a delicious dinner while briefing the family on tomorrow’s life-changing gorilla trekking experience. The excitement was palpable as they prepared their gear, knowing that morning would bring a wildlife encounter few are privileged to experience.

Day 4: Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Dawn broke with anticipation hanging thick in the misty air as the De Ryk family prepared for what would be the pinnacle wildlife experience of their lives. After a thorough briefing from park rangers, we began our trek into Bwindi’s dense undergrowth, following narrow paths that twisted through a cathedral of ancient trees. Hours of challenging hiking through muddy slopes and tangled vegetation were instantly forgotten when we encountered the Rushegura gorilla family. Time stood still as we observed the silverback’s protective gaze, juveniles playfully tumbling through the forest floor, and mothers tenderly caring for their infants. The family remained speechless, tears glistening in Malou’s eyes as she witnessed these gentle giants just meters away, a profound connection bridging millions of years of evolution in a single, unforgettable hour.

Day 5: Canoe Ride on Lake Mutanda

The serene waters of Lake Mutanda offered a welcome respite for tired muscles after yesterday’s gorilla trek. Boarding traditional wooden canoes guided by local paddlers, we glided across the glassy surface reflecting perfect mirror images of the surrounding volcanoes. The De Ryk children delighted in learning paddling techniques from our Batwa guides, while spotting otters playfully darting through the water and various kingfishers diving with remarkable precision. Landing on one of the lake’s tiny islands, we enjoyed a picnic lunch while local fishermen demonstrated their time-honored methods. The afternoon light painted the landscape in golden hues as we paddled back, the family enchanted by stories of local myths and legends associated with this mystical lake.

Day 6: Transfer from Bwindi to Queen Elizabeth National Park

Our journey from the misty mountains of Bwindi to the savannah plains of Queen Elizabeth National Park offered continuously unfolding vistas of Uganda’s diverse beauty. Winding through the “Switzerland of Africa,” we descended from high-altitude forests into the Great Rift Valley, with the Rwenzori Mountains – Africa’s legendary Mountains of the Moon – providing a dramatic backdrop. The five-hour drive became an impromptu safari as we spotted baboon troops along the roadside and golden monkeys leaping through forest edges. Arriving at our lodge overlooking the Kazinga Channel as the sun began to set, the vast savannah plains stretched before us, promising new adventures and the distinctly different wildlife of Uganda’s most popular national park.

Day 7: Game Drive and Boat Cruise in Kasenyi Plains

The Kasenyi Plains revealed their treasures during our early morning game drive, when the savannah was bathed in soft golden light. Lion tracks led us to a magnificent pride lounging under an acacia tree, digesting their night’s hunt while cubs played nearby, much to the delight of the De Ryk children who quietly photographed these intimate moments. The plains teemed with Uganda kob, buffalo herds, and elephants moving majestically across the landscape. By afternoon, we exchanged our safari vehicle for a boat on the Kazinga Channel, where wildlife concentrates in spectacular numbers. Hippo pods snorted and submerged around us, enormous Nile crocodiles basked on banks, and elephants sprayed themselves with refreshing water. The channel’s shoreline hosted the greatest bird spectacle the family had ever witnessed—pelicans, fish eagles, and countless waterbirds creating a vibrant, living tapestry.

Day 8: Crater Lakes Exploration

Today we ventured into the often-overlooked gem of Queen Elizabeth Park—the Kyambura crater lakes region. These perfectly formed volcanic calderas, filled with shimmering blue-green waters, offered spectacular hiking opportunities and unparalleled views across the national park. The De Ryk family was fascinated by my explanations of how these dramatic landforms were created through ancient volcanic activity. At Lake Nyamununka, local salt harvesters demonstrated their traditional methods, allowing the family to try their hand at this centuries-old practice. Flamingoes created pink borders around several lakes, while vervet monkeys watched our progress from nearby fig trees. A picnic lunch atop one of the highest craters provided a 360-degree panorama that Malou described as “the most beautiful lunch view of my life.”

Day 9: Transfer from Queen Elizabeth to Kibale Forest

Our journey northward took us through the western corridor of Uganda, where agricultural landscapes gradually gave way to the emerald belt of Kibale Forest. The children counted the changing ecosystems as tea plantations with their geometric precision transformed into wild, untamed jungle. We stopped at a community-run coffee initiative where the family participated in the full bean-to-cup process, grinding and brewing their own afternoon coffee while learning about sustainable farming practices. As we approached Kibale by late afternoon, the forest announced itself with the distant calls of chimpanzees and the chatter of numerous monkey species. Checking into our forest lodge, we fell asleep to a symphony of nocturnal forest sounds, preparing our senses for tomorrow’s primate encounter.

Day 10: Chimpanzee Tracking in Kibale Forest

The misty morning forest welcomed us as we set out with park rangers to track our closest living relatives—the chimpanzees of Kibale. The De Ryk family listened intently during the briefing, understanding that unlike mountain gorillas, chimps are highly active and mobile. Our tracking began with distant vocalizations that gradually grew louder until suddenly, the forest canopy erupted with the distinctive pant-hoots of a large community. For the next hour, we were immersed in the complex social dramas of chimp life—males displaying with impressive charging runs and vocalizations, skilled tool users fishing for termites, and mothers carefully tending to clinging infants. The family was mesmerized by their expressiveness and the unmistakable intelligence behind their eyes. Seventeen-year-old Luca remarked how watching their human-like gestures and emotions had fundamentally changed his understanding of our place in the natural world.

Day 11: Bigodi Swamp Walk

Today’s adventure took us to the remarkable community-run Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, where local guides led us along raised wooden walkways through papyrus swamps teeming with life. The expert knowledge of our community guide complemented my own as we spotted eight different primate species including the rare L’Hoest’s monkey and the striking black-and-white colobus. The Bird enthusiasts in the De Ryk family were thrilled to add the Great Blue Turaco and Papyrus Gonolek to their growing bird list. Beyond wildlife, the family gained insight into how this community ecotourism project has transformed local attitudes toward conservation while providing sustainable livelihoods. We concluded our visit at the women’s crafting collective, where Malou and her daughters selected handcrafted mementos while learning the stories behind these traditional arts.

Day 12: Transfer to Murchison Falls National Park

Today’s journey took us through Uganda’s diverse heartland as we traveled northward toward the country’s largest protected area. The landscape transformed dramatically—from the lush forests of Kibale through the sprawling farmlands of the Albertine region and finally to the palm-dotted savannahs approaching Murchison Falls. Crossing the Victoria Nile by ferry provided an exhilarating transition into the park, with hippos visible in the waters below and baboons scampering along the riverbanks. The children delighted in the ferry crossing, spotting their first distant elephants on the northern banks. Arriving at our lodge overlooking the river in late afternoon, we watched the sunset paint the landscape golden while distant grunts of hippos provided the perfect soundtrack to end our travel day.

Day 13: Game Drive & Boat Cruise in Murchison Falls

The expansive northern plains of Murchison revealed themselves during our morning game drive as a wildlife paradise unlike any other in Uganda. Giraffes moved elegantly across the landscape in large numbers, while Jackson’s hartebeest, oribi, and Uganda kob created a constant parade of antelope species. The De Ryk family gasped as we encountered our first Rothschild’s giraffe, distinguished by its distinctive white “socks” and markings. By mid-morning, we located a pride of lions lounging in the shade of a desert date tree, digesting their morning buffalo kill. After lunch, our boat cruise upstream toward the falls provided remarkable wildlife viewing from the water—enormous crocodiles, water buffalo cooling in the shallows, and elephants coming to drink. As we approached the falls, the thunderous roar grew until we beheld the spectacular sight of the entire Nile River forcing itself through a seven-meter gap, creating one of Africa’s most powerful and mesmerizing natural wonders.

Day 14: Morning Game Drive and Top of Murchison Falls Tour

Our final morning game drive in Murchison’s northern sector delivered extraordinary leopard sightings—a normally elusive cat draped languorously over an acacia branch, seemingly unbothered by our presence. The De Ryk children watched in silent awe through binoculars as the spotted cat’s tail swayed hypnotically above us. After returning for lunch, we embarked on the challenging hike to the top of Murchison Falls, where the path climbed alongside the raging torrent of water. Reaching the observation point directly above the falls, we felt the ground vibrate from the sheer power of the compressed Nile. The family stood mesmerized by the rainbow-creating mist and the breathtaking views both upstream and downstream. This perspective—standing at the precise point where tons of water squeeze through the gorge—provided an appreciation for the raw power of nature that photographs simply cannot capture.

Day 15: Budongo Forest and Transfer to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Our morning in Budongo Forest offered the family a different primate experience—a more relaxed forest walk focusing on the exceptional birdlife and varied monkey species of this mature rainforest. The towering mahogany trees created a magnificent cathedral-like atmosphere as we spotted red-tailed monkeys, blue monkeys, and the spectacular black-and-white colobus leaping through the canopy. Bird enthusiasts Malou and her son delighted in sighting the chocolate-backed kingfisher and the Nahan’s francolin—specialties of this forest. By midday, we began our journey southward, arriving at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary by early evening. The family’s excitement was palpable as we checked into our lodge, knowing tomorrow would bring encounters with the only wild rhinos in Uganda, completing the coveted “Big Five” wildlife experience.

Day 16: Rhino Tracking at Ziwa Sanctuary

Dawn found us receiving a safety briefing from the specialized rhino rangers before setting out on foot across the sanctuary’s acacia woodlands. The tracking experience built anticipation as we followed fresh rhino tracks and dung, speaking in hushed whispers. After an hour’s steady walk, the ranger raised his hand, and there before us stood Uhuru and her two-year-old calf, massive yet somehow peaceful as they grazed in a small clearing. Under the rangers’ expert guidance, we approached to a safe distance, the family captivated by these prehistoric-looking creatures whose species once roamed freely throughout Uganda before being poached to local extinction. The two-hour encounter allowed us to observe natural behaviors while learning about the ambitious breeding program that aims to eventually reintroduce rhinos to Uganda’s national parks. The De Ryk family was particularly moved when learning that each rhino is protected 24/7 by dedicated rangers, creating an unbreakable bond between protectors and these magnificent animals.

Day 17: Transfer to Jinja

Today’s journey took us eastward across central Uganda toward the adventure capital of Jinja, situated at the source of the Nile. The changing landscapes offered a comprehensive look at Uganda’s heartland—rolling hills covered with tea plantations, bustling small towns, and increasingly lush vegetation as we approached the Nile valley. We made a memorable stop at a roadside market where the family practiced their bargaining skills while selecting tropical fruits to sample. By late afternoon, we reached the picturesque town of Jinja, checking into our riverside lodge with magnificent views over the point where Lake Victoria transforms into the world’s longest river. The excitement built as we met with representatives from White Nile Rafting Ltd to prepare for tomorrow’s adventure, watching videos of the famous rapids while the family alternated between nervous laughter and determined expressions.

Day 18: White Water Rafting with White Nile Rafting Ltd

Adrenaline replaced serenity today as the De Ryk family embarked on an exhilarating white water rafting expedition on the Victoria Nile. After comprehensive safety instructions and practice maneuvers in calm water, we navigated through increasingly challenging rapids named “Overtime,” “Retrospect,” and the infamous “The Bad Place.” Between heart-pounding rapids, we floated through tranquil stretches where fish eagles soared overhead and local fishermen cast their nets from traditional craft. The family worked as a synchronized team, responding to our guide’s commands with growing confidence. Sixteen-year-old Sofia, initially hesitant, emerged as the most enthusiastic paddler, leading the family cheer after successfully navigating each challenging section. A riverside lunch provided stunning views and amusing comparisons of who had the most dramatic expressions in the action photographs. By day’s end, the family shared a profound sense of accomplishment, with Malou commenting that conquering the Nile rapids together would forever symbolize their ability to overcome challenges through teamwork.

Day 19: Transfer to Entebbe

As our extraordinary journey through Uganda began its conclusion, we departed Jinja for the two-hour drive to Entebbe. The road followed the northern shore of Lake Victoria, offering periodic glimpses of Africa’s largest lake through lush banana plantations and fishing villages. We made a special stop at the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre, where the family gained insight into conservation challenges and rehabilitation efforts for injured wildlife. The children were particularly moved by the rescued chimpanzees’ stories and the dedicated keepers working to protect Uganda’s natural heritage. By late afternoon, we reached Entebbe’s peaceful lake shore, settling into our comfortable hotel where the family could begin processing their countless memories while enjoying international amenities after weeks of more rustic accommodation. Dinner featured a surprise arrangement—several of our previous local guides joined us for a farewell meal filled with laughter, shared photographs, and plans for the family’s inevitable return to Uganda.

Day 20: Entebbe Botanical Gardens and Beach

Our final full day provided a gentle conclusion to three weeks of adventure. The morning found us wandering through Entebbe’s historic Botanical Gardens, established in 1898 as a testing ground for tropical crops and now home to remarkable tree specimens and abundant birdlife. The De Ryk family appreciated the relaxed pace as we identified over forty bird species while strolling through manicured gardens to Lake Victoria’s shore. Black-and-white colobus monkeys entertained us from massive fig trees, while Vervet monkeys scampered across the lawns. After lunch, we embraced pure relaxation at one of Entebbe’s lake beaches, where the family swam in the clear waters of Lake Victoria, played beach volleyball, and reflected on their favorite moments from the journey. As the sun began to set on their Ugandan adventure, we gathered for a special lakeside dinner where each family member shared their most transformative experience from the past three weeks, revealing how this journey had changed their perspective on wildlife, conservation, and their place in the natural world.

Day 21: Departure from Uganda

The mood was bittersweet as I accompanied the De Ryk family to Entebbe International Airport for their departure. After three weeks of traversing Uganda’s remarkable landscapes and encountering its extraordinary wildlife, the family had been transformed. No longer just tourists, they had become ambassadors for Uganda’s natural heritage, carrying with them thousands of photographs and countless stories to share with friends and family back home. As we said our goodbyes, Malou expressed how this journey had far exceeded their expectations, creating a profound connection to Uganda that would endure long after their return home. Watching their aircraft take flight over Lake Victoria, I reflected on the privilege of having guided this remarkable family through my country’s treasures, knowing they departed with not just memories, but a piece of Uganda forever in their hearts.

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